Seckinger Zugellos

Zugellos means unbridled, and the Seckinger brothers more or less live up to it. This is 70% Muskateller and 30% Weissburgunder off five hectares in Deidesheim, farmed organic since 2017 and biodynamically besides, on the Pfalz's yellow and red sandstone with veins of marl and limestone.

Whole clusters go in, the free-run juice ferments spontaneously on native yeasts, and it spends six months in a 3,000-liter German oak Doppelstuck with no temperature control, no filtration, no fining, and a gravity decant. Malolactic runs complete and unforced.

Five milligrams of sulphur at bottling, and nothing else. At 9.5% alcohol this is the rare low-alcohol wine that does not taste like watered-down lemon juice: the malo gives it a delicate, almost creamy texture, the nose is all dried herbs and dried flowers, and it finishes bone dry, faintly hazy and savory.

Around 2,500 cases. A joyous little thing, and dangerously easy to finish.