Calafata Gronda

Gronda is Calafata's white field blend from the Colline Lucchesi, 70% Vermentino with 10% each of Malvasia, Trebbiano and Moscato. Calafata is a social cooperative in the hills above Lucca, started by a group of friends with no farming background between them, and it exists as much to give at-risk young people a footing and a trade as it does to make wine.

They recovered old native vineyards to do it; the vines here average around fifty years, rooted in clay, calcareous marl and a good deal of stone. The grapes are destemmed into open tubs for a short maceration, fermented spontaneously on their own ambient yeasts, and raised in stainless steel with nothing added for polish.

Straw yellow with green flecks, it opens on citrus zest, white flowers and fresh herbs, then turns fresh and quick across the palate and closes on a savory, saline note that keeps you reaching back for the glass. A small production, around 4,500 bottles.

Pour it cold for aperitivo hour, or alongside seafood, a light pasta or a plate of fresh pecorino.